Celebrating the Past and Shaping the Future in Galloway

Note: This post was originally published in 2022. I’ve updated it and combined it with this year’s post about the Pinelands Short Course and Lines on the Pines and included dates for the 2024 events. Be sure to save the dates!

Across the bay from Brigantine Island lies the township of Galloway, one of my favorite places near the shore and in the Pine Barrens. As the reputed birthplace of the legendary Jersey Devil, Galloway is steeped in the bygone folklore of the Pines but is also the home of Stockton University, a relatively new but thriving center of learning. When I lived in Brigantine, I used to ride at Split Elm Equestrian Center located less than 10 minutes from the main campus and the base of Stockton’s Equestrian Team

Galloway also hosts two days devoted to the Pine Barrens at Stockton’s main campus. In 2001, the annual Pinelands Short Course moved to Stockton for three years from its original home at Rutgers University’s Cook College where it debuted in 1990. It then returned to Rutgers until 2014 when it moved back to Stockton. I attended the event, described as “featuring educational presentations that explore the unique history, ecology, and culture of the Pinelands.”  for the first time in 2022 when it returned after being canceled in 2020 just as the COVID-19 pandemic began sweeping the nation. 

In April 2021, it took place virtually as a “short discussion” on Zoom hosted by the Pinelands Commission. Participants included:

  • John Volpa, founder of the Black Run Preserve
  • Ted Gordon, Botanist and Historian
  • Terry O’Leary, Retired NJ Park and Forest Service Educator
  • Becky Laboy, Education Outreach Specialist, Ocean County Soil Conservation District
  • Samuel Moore, Cranberry Farmer and Retired NJ Forest Fire Service Warden

In 2022, I attended three presentations: Atlantic County’s Ghost Railroad: The Brigantine Railroad and Trolley System; Water and Wildlife: Pine Barrens and Barnegat Bay; and the Stockton Campus Birding Walk. Unfortunately, the weather was terrible with cold drenching rain in the morning switching over to a wintry mix later in the day.  

Atlantic County’s Ghost Railroad

My first program of the day was Atlantic County’s Ghost Railroad: The Brigantine Railroad and Trolley System. Presented by Norman Goos, librarian for the Atlantic County Historical Society, this program delved into the history of the Brigantine Beach Railroad. From 1890 to 1910, the railroad connected Pomona in Galloway to the then sparsely populated island of Brigantine. Unfortunately, the railroad was short-lived. Plagued by storm damage, accidents, and labor issues, the rail company went out of business. Goos described how most of the tracks were removed for scrap during World War I. 

Barnegat Bay

Next was Water and Wildlife: Pine Barrens and Barnegat Bay. This program was presented by Karen Walzer, Public Outreach Coordinator at Barnegat Bay Partnership. Karen described Barnegat Bay as a series of barrier islands, which are really “giant sandbars,” where the freshwater of the pinelands mingled with the salt water of the Atlantic ocean, creating a brackish ecosystem of tidal wetlands and salt marshes. Noting the threat of rising sea level, she highlighted the importance of wetlands as a buffer between the bay and nearby homes, protecting them from flooding and storm surge.

She also discussed the impact of pollution caused by overdevelopment and fertilizer runoff. Algae blooms, unhealthy growth of algae fueled by pollution, killed sea life. The end of Karen’s presentation focused on ways to protect and restore Barnegat Bay. Rain barrels, rain gardens, and green infrastructure mimicking nature help protect against runoff. Because shellfish such as scallops, oysters, and clams filter and clean water, efforts to control overharvesting, restore oyster reefs, and increase populations are underway. 

I was particularly interested in this program because of Barnegat Bay’s ecological similarity to the backwaters of Brigantine, an area I’ve been familiar with since childhood. These coves, thoroughfares and channels are connected to Great Bay. Both Barnegat Bay and Great Bay are vital estuaries on the Jersey Shore. 

Wet Winter Weather

Because of the freezing wet winter weather, the Birding Walk was switched to an indoor presentation of best birding locations in and around the Pine Barrens. The presenter was Joshua M. Gant, a park naturalist with Ocean County Parks and Recreation.

A Presentation of Best Birding Spots in South Jersey at 2022 Stockton University Pine Barrens Short Course
A Presentation of Best Birding Spots in South Jersey (Photo by Beach and Barrens)

In spite of the torrential rain, Jeff Larson, Pinelands Adventures’ most experienced tour guide and long-time Pine Barrens resident, led a bus tour of the historical ruins of Harrisville. A graduate of Stockton with a degree in business, Jeff told me that he designed and has conducted this tour for the short course since “about 2015” with the exception of the two years lost to the COVID-19 pandemic. 

Originally called Ghosts of the Wading River, this year the program was renamed Harrisville: 19th Century Life on the Wading River. According to the description, this trip gives participants “a glimpse into what life was like along the Wading River in the Pine Barrens during the 1800’s. In this three-hour excursion, participants will explore the ruins in and around the former town of Harrisville and surrounding area.” 

A professional guitarist and music teacher, Jeff composed two albums of music with a Pine Barrens theme: Leeds Devil Blues and The Barrens. In 2008, Jeff participated in Lines on the Pines as a musician.  Billed as “an annual gathering of artists, authors and artisans whose passion is the Pines,” the event is free and open to the public.

Lines on the Pines

Linda Stanton started Lines on the Pines in 2006 after reading several books about the Pine Barrens. The first event was held at Sweetwater Casino where it remained until 2008. After a fire destroyed Sweetwater Casino, the event moved to various venues from 2009 and 2017 throughout Atlantic County, including the Frog Rock Golf and Country Club and Kerri Brooke Caterers in Hammonton as well as Vienna Inn and Renault Winery in Egg Harbor City. In 2018, the event moved to its current home at Stockton University where it takes place the day after the Short Course. I attended for the first time in 2019. As with the short course, the 2020 and 2021 events were canceled because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

I’ve always been curious about the name of the event and reached out to Linda to find out what inspired it. “When I started the event it was to be a salute to authors who wrote about  the Pine Barrens,” Linda explained. “Writing is lines, the topic is pines so I called it Lines on the Pines. This event is sponsored by my nonprofit: It’s a Sign of the Pines.” 

Author and friend Barbara Solem has participated in Lines on the Pines every year the event has taken place since its inception where she offers her books for sale. Barbara is also a member of the Batsto Citizen Committee.

Musicians also participate in Lines on the Pines, beginning in 2007 with Valerie Vaughn, “New Jersey’s Troubadour,” and Jim Albertson, composer of Down Jersey, and continue to do so. Gabe Coia, composer of The Pines of My Past, played in 2008 with Jeff Larson and in 2012 with Renee Brecht. Gabe also plays at Batsto Village’s Winter in the Pines event. Other musicians and bands who featured their work at past Lines on the Pines include: 

  • Jim Murphy & The Pine Barons: Go New Jersey album
  • G. Russell Juelg
  • Bram Taylor
  • Rich Carty (The Dulcimer Guy)
  • Bryant Still-Hicks
  • Ong’s Hat Band: Acoustic Roots Music on a Tangent
  • Devin Wadell and Jake Perry: Elwood and Ocean Tide
  • Tom Stackhouse: Tragedy. Mystery. Hope

Many more people and groups are represented each year, filling several rooms and drawing a large crowd. Here are some highlights.

Woodford Cedar Run Wildlife Refuge

The Woodford Cedar Run Wildlife Refuge, “a 171-acre wildlife refuge, wildlife rehabilitation hospital, and nature center” in Medford, had one of their resident Great Horned Owls with them to meet the public. I have visited Cedar Run several times, and I volunteered for them in a grant writing capacity during the pandemic.

One of Woodford Cedar Run Wildlife Refuge's resident Great Horned Owls at the 2022 Lines on the Pines
Cedar Run’s Great Horned Owl (Photo by Beach and Barrens)

Pine Barrens Diamonds

Paul Evans Pederson, Jr. is a local artisan who creates jewelry from glass found around the Pine Barrens left over from the days when glass factories were in operation. He calls his work “Pine Barrens Diamonds” and notes on his business card that he keeps South Jersey “glass-making traditions alive, using hand-made, hand-tooled” South Jersey glass.  I mentioned to Paul that I lived in Atco, which had a glass factory in the past. He said he finds a lot of glass in Atco. I already have a pair of purple Pine Barrens Diamonds earrings purchased at a PPA event. Paul pointed out that purple was a rare color. I bought another pair of earrings made from multi-colored, opal-like glass. 

Dr. James Still

Representatives from the Dr. James Still Historic Office Site and Education Center were on hand to discuss the mission of the center, which focuses on “teaching, restoring and preserving the Legacy” of the man known as ‘‘The Black Doctor of the Pines.” Dr. Still was a 19th century physician who built a successful medical practice in the Pine Barrens despite the racism and prejudice he faced. The center, located in Medford on the site of Dr. Still’s office is “the first African American Historic Site preserved by the state of New Jersey.” It will open on the first and third Sundays of each month from noon to 4 p.m. Books about Dr. Still available for purchase at the center include:

  • Early Recollections and Life of Dr. James Still by Dr. James Still
  • The Underground Railroad by William Still
  • The Kidnapped and the Ransomed: The Narrative of Peter and Visa Still after Forty Years of Slavery by Kate E.R. Pickard.

Iron, Glass, and Horses

Earlier this year, I attended the Pinelands Short Course once again in March. This year John Hebble, Historian at Batsto Village, gave a presentation entitled Iron, Glass, And Water: Industry And Natural Resources In The Pine Barrens.

After giving an general overview of the ecological region known as the Pine Barrens and the area covered by the Pinelands Comprehensive Management Plan, John discussed how the ample supply of water in the Pine Barrens enabled several major industries to thrive leading to the establishment of industrial towns such as Batsto Village.

Batsto Village was founded as an iron furnace in 1775, utilizing ready access to water and pitch pine for charcoal to process the bog iron ore found in the Pine Barrens. John displayed photos of advertisements of the era, describing how the furnaces at both Batsto and Atsion produced and sold such items as iron cookware and tools “of the best quality.” John also described the system of indentured servitude that provided workers for the ironworks.

Next, John discussed the importance of South Jersey glass, which developed after the bog iron industry declined. Three major natural resources allowed the glass industry to thrive in the Pine Barrens: sand, wood, and navigable waterways. From 1840 to 1860, almost one-third of the glass in the United States was manufactured in New Jersey. Glass-making became one of the oldest and most successful industries in South Jersey. 

The Batsto Glass Works operated from 1846 to 1867. Jesse Richards and his son Thomas H. Richards constructed the glassworks near the furnace. John said Batsto produced glass primarily for windows and street lamps such as the thousands of street lamps installed in Camden in 1852.

In addition to John’s presentation, I registered for two other classes during the day, including Where the Pinelands Meet the Bay: the Unnoticed Symbiosis of Shellfish and Pinelands, presented by Rick Bushnell, Chair of ReClam the Bay. Rick discussed the relationship between Barnegat Bay and the Pinelands where the eastern edge of the pines touches the western edge of the Barnegat Bay estuary and explained how shellfish help protect against erosion. 

“Everything’s connected,” he said and described the mission of his organization. According to the Reclam the Bay website: “We grow and maintain millions of baby clams and oysters in the Barnegat Bay Watershed which includes Barnegat Bay, Manahawkin Bay and Little Egg Harbor bay. We want people to understand the services that shellfish provide. They filter water, provide habitat, stabilize shorelines, and TASTE GREAT. Help us give them a better home so they can give us a better home”

I also attended a presentation of live raptors from Woodford Cedar Run Wildlife Refuge, including a broad-shouldered hawk, great horned owl, and turkey vulture. Cedar Run rehabilitates injured wildlife with the goal of releasing them back into the wild. When an animal is not able to recover sufficiently to allow for that, as was the case with these three birds, Cedar Run gives them a permanent home and sometimes takes them on educational trips such as this one.

At the end of the day, I listened to a performance in the Campus Center cafe by Jackson Pines. Founded in their hometown, the Pine Barrens municipality of Jackson in Ocean County, this folk band played New Jersey folk songs on guitar, stand-up bass, fiddle, and harmonica. Tunes covered included Mt. Holly Jail, the Unquiet Grave, Depression Song, Love is a Gamble, Beulah Land, and Clam Diggers Blues.

The next day I attended the 2023 version of Lines on the Pines. This year’s theme was “Hoof n’ Tell,” paying homage to horses, the state animal of New Jersey since 1977. 

I was honored that Linda Stanton asked me to contribute two articles, Ghosts of Horse Racing’s Past and Our Gal Sal, to a short book she compiled for this year’s event entitled Horses of New Jersey’s Pine Barrens: Stories and Tall Tales By the Pine Barrens Celebrities of Lines on the Pines. Linda dedicated the book to her late husband, Jim Stanton. I got to meet Linda in person for the first time, and she was kind and gracious enough to sign my copy of the book for me.

The book contains articles and poems with a horse theme along with photos and artwork. Other contributors include South Jersey Horse Rescue in Egg Harbor City, Funny Farm Rescue & Sanctuary in Mays Landing; C. Paul Evans Pederson, Jr. (Mount Misery Music, BMI and Pine Barrens Diamonds); historian John Hebble; Wes Hughes of the Batsto Citizens Committee; and Budd Wilson. The book’s introduction explains that a group of students from Our Lady of Victories School in Harrington Park suggested designating the horse as the state animal where it is now proudly represented on the state seal as a horse head, symbolizing “speed and strength.” 

I also met Dr. Thomas Kinsella, Director of Stockton’s South Jersey Culture and History Center (SJCHC), who assists Linda with the event. The  SJCHC publishes SoJourn magazine, which focuses on South Jersey history and culture. Kinsella invited me to contribute an article in a future edition. Stay tuned!

Save the Dates!

The 35th Annual Pinelands Short Course is scheduled for March 9, 2024. Lines on the Pines, held the second Sunday of every March, is scheduled for March 10, 2024.

The Ghost Train of Brigantine

When Stockton University announced its 33rd Annual Pinelands Short Course, which was held last month on March 12th, the first program I registered for was Atlantic County’s Ghost Railroad: The Brigantine Railroad and Trolley System. Although I grew up in Brigantine, I never heard that a train and trolley line once ran on the island, and I was eager to learn more.

Presented by Norman Goos, librarian for the Atlantic County Historical Society, the program delved into the history of the Brigantine Beach Railroad. From 1890 to 1910, the railroad connected Pomona in Galloway to the then sparsely populated island of Brigantine. Much to my surprise, I learned that the railroad’s terminal in Brigantine was located at Roosevelt Boulevard. Roosevelt Boulevard is the road that runs next to the street where my house was located and leads from the beach back to the bay where the Brigantine Golf Links lies. The railroad traveled through what is now the golf course to reach the terminal. 

According to Goos, after three previous railroad plans failed, the Brigantine Beach Railroad, announced in 1887 was finally built. The Brigantine Beach Railroad trackbed began near the White Horse Pike and crossed what is today the Atlantic City Line track and Garden State Parkway. The trackbed then ran along Great Creek Road, which was built for this railroad. It angled off today’s Jimmie Leeds Road, crossed Shore Road, and went down Lily Lake Road. It then traveled along what is now part of Wildlife Drive in the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge (Brigantine Division). From there, a big trestle and gallows drawbridges crossed Grassy Bay and marshland into Brigantine. 

Unfortunately, the railroad was short-lived. Plagued by storm damage, accidents, and labor issues, the rail company went out of business. Goos described how most of the tracks were removed for scrap during World War I. After that, the railroad faded from memory, like many of the ghost towns and other ghost railroads of South Jersey.

Wildlife Drive where the Brigantine Railroad Ran with Brigantine in the Background (Photo by Beach and Barrens)

Where are the Best Birding Spots in South Jersey?

On Saturday, March 12th, Stockton University held the 33rd Annual Pinelands Short Course described as “a daylong event featuring educational presentations that explore the unique history, ecology, and culture of the Pinelands.” One of the presentations I registered for was the Stockton Campus Birding Walk. Unfortunately, the weather was terrible with cold drenching rain switching over to sleet so the Birding Walk was switched to an indoor presentation of best birding locations in and around the Pine Barrens. The presenter Joshua M. Gant, a park naturalist with Ocean County Parks and Recreation, offered the following recommendations:

During the question and answer session, we discussed Forsythe and when ospreys might be returning. I mentioned that I hadn’t seen any yet, and he noted that it was still too early for them. 

I saw ospreys in the wild for the first time on a gloomy day in late March of 2021 during one of my first trips to the Forsythe refuge. I was on Eco Leeds Trail when I heard a branch snap in a nearby tree and spotted a large bird fly out from behind it. As the osprey swooped above me and headed out over the bay toward a nesting platform where it landed, I snapped a series of photographs.

I’ve already visited Forsythe multiple times this winter when gulls, geese, and ducks are by far the most common birds. Mute swans and Canada geese are year round residents but snow geese visit only in winter.

A mute swan in the bay at Forsythe Wildlife Refuge in Galloway, NJ
Mute Swan at Forsythe (Photo by Beach and Barrens)

This past Saturday, the day before the vernal equinox, I visited Forsythe again and spotted ospreys on several nesting platforms. And they are already hard at work building nests and catching fish! I also saw my first great egret and first double-crested cormorant of the year. Happy Spring!

Stockton’s Annual Day of Service Honors Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.

“If you can’t fly then run, if you can’t run then walk, if you can’t walk then crawl, but whatever you do, you have to keep moving forward.”

– Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.

The King Holiday and Service Act of 1993 transformed Martin Luther King Jr. Day into a national day of service. South Jersey’s Stockton University has honored the day with its “signature Annual Day of Service” since 2005. Learn more about it here: MLK Day of Service – The Center for Community Engagement and Service-Learning | Stockton University. The school decided to include the 2022 MLK Day of Service and the African American Cultural Heritage Short Course as part of its 50th Anniversary Signature Events celebrating 50 years of teaching from Fall 2021 through Summer 2022. The school also is notable in African-American history with Vera King Farris serving as Stockton’s president from May 25, 1983 to June 3, 2003. Dr. Farris was the first female African-American president of a public college in New Jersey.

Stockton University and the Osprey

Originally founded in 1969 as South Jersey State College, Stockton  began teaching its first students in September 1971 at the now demolished Mayflower Hotel in Atlantic City while its new main campus in the Pine Barrens of Galloway was under construction. The Argo, the school newspaper produced by students, began printing in 1971. The first class graduated in 1973. Accredited in 1975 as a four-year state college, the school changed its name in 1993 to the Richard Stockton College of New Jersey. Stockton University Atlantic City is the school’s newest campus. Other campuses and locations include Hammonton (Kramer Hall), Manahawkin, and Woodbine. The Noyes Museum of Art, with galleries in Atlantic City and Hammonton, is also part of Stockton University.

On January 9, 1973, the same year of its first graduating class, Stockton University chose the osprey as the new school’s official mascot, beginning a long and proud tradition. The osprey bested nine other (mostly) worthy candidates in four rounds of voting, winning in the final round against Sandpipers. The 10 candidates included “Jersey Devils, Argonauts, Ospreys, Blue Herons, Scorpions, Hobbits, Skunks, SandPipers, Mosquitos, and Clamdiggers.” The university’s website comments on the appropriateness of the osprey, “embodying Stockton’s fierce, graceful, and hardworking community all in one symbol.” The title of the university’s anthem is Ospreys on Parade. The Stockton University Seal incorporates an image of the osprey: “The osprey, Stockton’s mascot, has a spectacular six-foot wing span, occurs world-wide, and can be seen hunting fish over the campus lakes spring through fall. We are proud to call our athletic teams the Ospreys.”

Check out this new photo gallery on the Beach and Barrens Facebook page with more images of America’s Fishing Hawk!

Bending with the Seasons: Industries in the Pines

When I first discovered Pinelands Adventures and their educational tours in 2019, the first tour I went on was the Industries in the Pines tour led by Jeff Larson. Jeff, a long-time Pine Barrens resident with extensive knowledge of the area and one of Pinelands Adventures most senior tour guides, developed this tour about five years ago. Also a professional musician and music teacher, Jeff released two albums of music he composed with a Pine Barrens theme: Leeds Devil Blues and The Barrens.

Deep Run Cranberry Bog, Industries of the Pines Tour, April 2019

With Pinelands Adventures slowly relaunching its educational program after a hiatus during the pandemic, I had the opportunity to revisit this tour, which covers some lesser known areas of the Pine Barrens, with a friend. Precautions were still in place with masks required on the bus.

Harvesting a “Barren” Land

Jeff explained that the Pine Barrens are part of New Jersey’s outer coastal plain with sandy acidic soil known as “sugar sand” that is too sterile for most crops. The Lenni Lenape people who lived there harvested what the land offered such as sphagnum. They utilized the absorbent properties of this moss for diaper material and wound dressings. Although American colonists did not find the area desirable for agriculture, they began building sawmills to harvest the vast timber resources, making lumber production the first industry established by English settlers. The mills supplied wood to shipyards and other customers, such as Benjamin Randolph, a cabinetmaker born in Monmouth County. Randolph crafted the lap desk Thomas Jefferson used to write the Declaration of Independence in his Philadelphia workshop. 

Atlantic White Cedars

Ship builders especially prized Atlantic White Cedar trees, a member of the cypress family that thrives in the wetlands of forests. These tall conifers grow straight and strong, making them excellent ship masts. When growing in abundance, they form cedar swamps where the towering trees darken the forest, making it cooler than the surrounding area. Their root systems form a watery carpet of hummocks and hollows. 

I asked Jeff about a stand of dead cedar trees I noticed, and he explained that this species is somewhat delicate. Too much water can kill them. 

“It can’t be too wet, and it can’t be too dry,” Jeff said.

In the case of this particular stand, a broken beaver dam flooded the trees. They also grow slowly so when the practice of clearcutting stripped an area of cedar trees, hardwoods grew in their place, altering the natural ecosystem. Jeff informed us of an initiative to re-establish cedar swamps starting in the Atsion Lake area.

In 2003, Jeff discovered an enormous cedar tree while exploring the Pine Barrens. He contacted George Zimmermann, professor of environmental studies at Stockton University, so the tree could be documented. The measurements of the tree qualified it as the largest living Atlantic White Cedar in New Jersey, and it was recorded with the New Jersey Official Big Tree Registry.

Atsion and the Iron Industry

Philadelphian Charles Read dammed the Mullica River in 1766 when he built an iron furnace at Atsion, creating Atsion Lake. Fellow Philadelphian Samuel Richards purchased the ironworks in 1819. A community known as Atsion Village blossomed where employees could live around the iron furnace, beginning the practice of establishing town communities around the industry centers. 

Fueled by the plentiful bog iron found throughout the Pine Barrens, the iron industry thrived and dominated the area for a period of time. According to the Tabernacle Historical Society, Benjamin Randolph, the same cabinet maker who made the Jefferson desk, moved to Burlington County in 1784 and “started the Construction of an iron furnace on his Speedwell property,” which originally had operated a sawmill. 

Hampton Park and Deep Run Cranberry Bog

After Atsion, Jeff drove us into the woods and to an old cranberry bog at Deep Run along the unpaved Hampton Road where he began described another chapter in the industrial history of the Pines. The use of anthracite coal in Pennsylvania proved to be more efficient than the bog iron used in South Jersey. Recognizing that the iron industry in the Pine Barrens couldn’t compete with the better quality iron in Pennsylvania, some property owners turned to another source of income that thrived in wetlands: cranberries.

Andrew Rider, first president of Rider University, built Hampton Park along the Batsto River near Deep Run in 1888. Originally an iron furnace, cranberry operations eventually supplanted the ironworks. To capitalize on this new enterprise, Jeff told us that Rider cultivated a relationship with the British royal family in order to promote cranberries. Queen Victoria liked and endorsed the fruit, and Rider became known as the “Cranberry King.” Rider University honors this legacy with its cranberry and white colors

“Cranberries picked up big time,” Jeff told us.

These activities were not without impact on the ecology. Jeff showed us the invasive plants at Hampton and Deep Run such as yucca plants, explaining that their presence indicated human activity in areas where there was nothing left but overgrown ruins such as the James McGinn house. Jeff surmised that McGinn, who probably was a bog manager at Deep Run, most likely planted the yucca. 

A fire ravaged the Cranberry packing house at Hampton, which now lies in ruins. Friendship, another nearby cranberry town, survived into the 20th century before it too was destroyed by fire.

Hampton Ruins, Industries of the Pines, October 2021

Bending with the Seasons

The people left behind when the company towns disappeared became known as “pineys.” They discovered new ways to subsist by “bending with the seasons.” In the fall, they harvested cranberries. In the winter, they collected mountain laurel to make wreaths and pine cones to create Christmas decorations, an activity called pine balling. Some pineys became “woodjins,” a name for local guides who offered their services as forest guides to botanists and other researchers. Jeff noted that folklore grew around some woodjins such as stories about the ability to navigate by tasting blueberries. 

More nefarious activities also took root such as moonshining during the Prohibition era, contributing to a reputation for lawlessness in the area. In the most notorious incident, Andrew Rider’s family fell victim to tragedy in 1916. While delivering the payroll to workers at Hampton Park, Rider’s brother Henry was murdered when robbers ambushed his group and a shootout ensued. 

Ghosts of the Wading River

As the iron industry faded, paper manufacturing became important. Philadelphian William McCarty bought land near the Wading River and built a papermill. Richard Harris later acquired and expanded the settlement and factory, and it became known as Harrisville. The Pinelands Commission hired Jeff to design and conduct a tour of Harrisville for the Pinelands Short Course offered annually by Stockton University, his alma mater. He calls it Ghosts of the Wading River, a name inspired by Barbara Solem’s book Ghost Towns and Other Quirky Places in the New Jersey Pine Barrens. Harrisville and nearby Martha Furnace, which had also evolved into a paper mill, eventually burned down and became a YMCA camp.

Harrisville Ruins, Industries of the Pines Tour, October 2021

Batsto Village and Glass Making

Glass manufacturing also developed. A glass factory at what is now Crowley’s Landing produced some of the first Mason jars. Thomas Richards founded the Jackson Glassworks in Waterford, NJ. Other historic glassworks include Hermann City and Bulltown. The remains of three glass boats from this time period called the Jemima Harriet, Argo, and Mary Frances still exist. 

Batsto Village on the Batsto River, another iron furnace founded by Charles Read, began producing glass. Philadelphian Joseph Wharton purchased Batsto, renovated the Batsto Mansion and started buying land throughout the Pine Barrens. His vast holdings would eventually become Wharton State Forest.

Blueberry Capital of the World

Elizabeth Coleman White, the eldest daughter of a New Jersey Quaker family, graduated from Friends Central School in Wynnewood Pennsylvania and furthered her education at what is now Drexel University in Philadelphia. She then worked at her family’s Whitesbog property where she collaborated with botanist Frederick Vernon Coville to successfully cultivate wild blueberries.

Fields in Hammonton that had been cut for peaches by Italian immigrants ended up being used for blueberries. Hammonton is now known as the Blueberry Capital of the World. Today, agriculture is the biggest industry in the Pine Barrens with blueberries and cranberries among the most important crops in New Jersey.

Tourism is another important modern industry, although not as big as agriculture. Jeff, who is originally from Monmouth County, recalled visiting and kayaking in the Pine Barrens with his church youth group.

Now, acting as something of a modern day woodjin, Jeff works weekends as a tour guide, educating people about the Pine Barrens, driving them out for kayaking trips and occasionally performing river rescues. He told us about one notable incident when he had been working at Pinelands Adventures for a year. A customer on the Mullica River called 911 in distress. Police and park rangers, including a rescue helicopter, swarmed the area. Jeff had a boat on his trailer and was asked to paddle the river to assist the search effort. He came upon the customer who turned out to have nothing more than a scratch but felt “tired.”

In addition to rescuing tired customers, Jeff said he often comes to the aid of turtles. The famously slow reptiles inch across roads in the Pine Barrens, frequently becoming roadkill victims. The recommended practice if you find a turtle is to move it to the other side of the road. Near the end of our tour, Jeff spotted a turtle on the roadway, pulled the bus over, and moved it to safety. All in a day’s work!

Jeff Larson, Industries of the Pines Tour, October 2021

The Osprey: America’s Fishing Hawk

Benjamin Franklin famously did not approve of the Bald Eagle as the national bird of the United States, although the story that he preferred the wild turkey is a myth, according to the Franklin Institute.

For my own part I wish the Bald Eagle had not been chosen the Representative of our Country. He is a Bird of bad moral Character. He does not get his Living honestly. You may have seen him perched on some dead Tree near the River, where, too lazy to fish for himself, he watches the Labour of the Fishing Hawk; and when that diligent Bird has at length taken a Fish, and is bearing it to his Nest for the Support of his Mate and young Ones, the Bald Eagle pursues him and takes it from him.

– Benjamin Franklin

Personally, I wouldn’t trade the Bald Eagle as America’s national bird for anything, but I do share Ben Franklin’s appreciation of the “Fishing Hawk” or, as it is officially known, the Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) and thankfully America is blessed with an abundance of them.

Smaller than a Bald Eagle, the Osprey is nevertheless a raptor with striking white and dark brown coloration and larger than a Red-tailed Hawk. My favorite place for Osprey watching in South Jersey is the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge. Wildlife Drive in the Brigantine division has multiple nesting platforms along its route where Osprey pairs return each year after migrating south for the winter. Ospreys, with their fish hook-like talons, are obviously expert fishers and the bays and coves along the drive provide ample opportunity.

When searching for and pursuing fish, the osprey hovers over the water until it spots one. Then it dives in after its prey, not always successfully, as this series of photos demonstrates.

And when it succeeds in catching a fish, the osprey still has to fend off thieves, not only bald eagles as Ben Franklin pointed out, but also members of its own species. This osprey eluded another osprey trying to steal its hard-earned dinner.

Osprey eluding another osprey trying to steal fish near Wildlife Drive at Forsythe Wildlife Refuge
Osprey Thief (Photo by Beach and Barrens)